Fine Dining Table Team: Okay, perfect. I'm going to start recording, okay? Good morning, we're here with Javier Áviles, chef at Santa Elvira Grocery Store, in Santiago, Chile. You’re among the 50 Best in Latin America—is that correct, Javier?
Javier Áviles: Hello, good morning. Yes, I prefer to be called a cook rather than a chef. We’ve been on the 50 Best list since last year. We’ve done very well, thanks to the list and other recognition. I think this year we’re going to move up a few more spots—or at least that’s the plan. So, that’s what we’re working toward.
Fine Dining Table Team: Well, Javier, the first question: Tell us about yourself, your story, how you got started, and how Pulpería Santa Elvira came to be. We’d love to hear it from you.
Javier Áviles: Well, I’m from Santiago, but I’ve lived in Antofagasta my whole life with my family—a middle-upper-class family. I studied architecture for a couple of years, but I realized it wasn’t what interested me. My family consisted of builders, architects, and engineers; that was the family tradition. I decided to travel around South America for a few months, and when I came back, I was already starting to develop an interest in cooking. I was 22 years old at the time. I went to San Pedro de Atacama, where I spent three years working on various projects related to gastronomy. Then, by chance, I ended up in Buenos Aires, where I lived for more than 18 years and built my career as a chef.
Fine Dining Table Team: Perfect. You said that you first became interested in cooking when you were 22, and you're now 50 years old.
Javier Áviles: Exactly, I've been in the business for almost 27 years. And I've always been a cook, never a chef. I think it's important for the younger generations to understand that you have to start at the bottom—not the other way around.
Fine Dining Table Team: Besides Santa Elvira Grocery Store, do you have any other projects in mind for the future?
Javier Áviles: Yes, we're planning to open another restaurant right here in Barrio Mata, but with a different, much larger layout.
Fine Dining Table Team: Tell us, how did the pandemic and the social unrest affect the neighborhood and your restaurant?
Javier Áviles: It hit us very hard. We weren't very well known, and just as we were starting to gain traction, the social unrest broke out, followed by COVID. Fortunately, it didn't affect me as much because I didn't have many employees or a large payroll. Also, during the pandemic, I was able to travel to Argentina and rethink the Santa Elvira project, which helped us a lot.
Fine Dining Table Team: Perfect. Tell us in your own words: What kind of cuisine does Pulpería Santa Elvira serve?
Javier Áviles: We offer four appetizers, four main courses, and three desserts. We highlight Chilean traditions and classic home-style dishes, reinterpreted using contemporary ingredients. Our goal is to showcase Chile in its entirety.
Fine Dining Table Team: Is there any chef or cook who has had a significant impact on your career?
Javier Áviles: The people who have influenced my career are from my generation, such as Gonzalo Aramburu, Rodolfo Guzmán, Virgilio Martínez, Enrique Olvera, and Leo Espinosa. I pay close attention to South American chefs.
Fine Dining Table Team: Is Chile ready for the arrival of the Fine Dining Table guide?
Javier Áviles: I think Chile is ready, but the public isn't quite there yet. In Chile, not many people go out to eat at restaurants, although that's changing. The Fine Dining Table guide could be a big help to restaurants here.
Fine Dining Table Team: Why do you think Chile hasn't taken steps to promote its culinary culture the way Argentina or Peru has?
Javier Áviles: In Chile, it has always been a matter for individuals. There has not been a strong association among chefs or support from the government to promote gastronomy as a key tourist attraction. This is something we are beginning to change now.
Fine Dining Table Team: Tell us, why should people visiting Santiago, Chile Make a mandatory stop at Pulpería Santa Elvira?
Javier Áviles: Pulpería Santa Elvira is a must-visit because we are the only contemporary cuisine restaurant in downtown Santiago to be included in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. We are located in a historic neighborhood and offer an authentic experience that showcases the best of Chilean tradition in a unique setting.
Fine Dining Table Team: Perfect. Thank you very much, Javier, for your time and for sharing your story with us.
Javier Áviles: Thank you.
Interview with Javier Áviles: The Soul of Pulpería Santa Elvira and the Gastronomic Revolution in Santiago
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