The Relentless Search: Chef Ignacio Ovalle and the Seafood Revolution at La Calma in Santiago

Fine Dining Table Team: We are here with Chef Ignacio Ovalle from La Calma, a restaurant located in Santiago, Chile, in the exclusive neighborhood of Vitacura. Ignacio, itโ€™s a pleasure to have you with us. This restaurant is one of my favorites, and Iโ€™m excited to learn more about you and how La Calma came to be. Could you tell us a little about your early days and the history of the restaurant?

Chef Ignacio Ovalle: Of course, itโ€™s a pleasure to be here. Well, let me tell you a little about myself and how I came to found La Calma. Iโ€™m a Chilean chef and Iโ€™ve been in the industry since 2001. I began my career at a French restaurant called Opera, in downtown Santiago. I started as an intern and, after several years, became the executive chef. That was my greatest learning experience; I worked my way through every section of the kitchen, and before taking on the role of chef, I had the opportunity to study in France at the Paul Bocuse Academy, a world-renowned institution in gastronomy.

La Calma Restaurant

Fine Dining Table Team: That's impressive! Your dedication and passion for your career are clear. And how did La Calma come about?

Chef Ignacio Ovalle: La Calma was founded in 2017 by Gabriel Layera, who was the first to bring this unique conceptโ€”which celebrates the Chilean seaโ€”to life. Then, with the pandemic in 2021, my partner Mauricio Fredes decided to acquire La Calma and asked me to take over. It was a huge challenge to transform an already well-established restaurantโ€”which operated almost like a family-run seafood restaurantโ€”into a more ambitious, large-scale project. Since November 2021, I havenโ€™t stopped for a single day in this process of learning and evolving the restaurant.

Fine Dining Table Team: It seems like it's been an incredible journey. And you've clearly taken La Calma to a whole new level. How has the transformation been since you took the reins?

Chef Ignacio Ovalle: It has been a very enriching process. I have worked tirelessly to build a solid team of ten chefs and to maintain the quality and authenticity that define La Calma. We focus on using only fresh ingredientsโ€”nothing processed or frozen. This requires a great deal of commitment and organization, but it allows us to offer an authentic and fresh dining experience. In addition, we have managed to establish the restaurantโ€™s reputation not only in Chile but also internationally.

Fine Dining Table Team: Without a doubt, La Calma has left its mark on Chilean gastronomy. Speaking of Chile, Iโ€™d be interested to hear your opinion on why Chileโ€”situated between two culinary powerhouses like Argentina and Peruโ€”has not managed to establish itself as a gastronomic hub in the region.

Chef Ignacio Ovalle: It is a complex question. I think that in Chile there has been a lack of a strategic approach to promoting gastronomy as a national brand. We have all the elements: a sea rich in resources, a mountain range that provides us with exceptional meats and vegetables, and a renowned winemaking tradition. However, the lack of unity and a clear direction to highlight these resources has prevented Chile from standing out as a world-class gastronomic destination. Furthermore, our specialized press has tended to focus more on foreign countries than on what happens within our borders.

Fine Dining Table Team: That's an interesting point. So, do you think there has been a lack of support and promotion at the national level?

Chef Ignacio Ovalle: Exactly. In addition, I think there has also been a lack of focus on strengthening aspects such as restaurant service and creating a more cohesive and professional experience. Itโ€™s not just about having good restaurants, but about creating a gastronomic culture that includes everyoneโ€”from fishermen to producers and marketers. Unity and mutual support are key for our gastronomy to reach its full potential.

Fine Dining Table Team: I think youโ€™ve brought up some key points. Finally, Ignacio, what sets La Calma apart from other restaurants?

Chef Ignacio Ovalle: Our constant pursuit of and respect for the ingredients we use is what sets us apart. We donโ€™t just aim to offer a set menu; rather, we adapt to what the sea provides us each day. This means that our menu changes based on the availability of fresh ingredients, guaranteeing a unique experience with every visit. In addition, we work closely with fishermen and shellfish gatherers, ensuring fair trade and valuing their workโ€”which I believe is essential to maintaining the authenticity and quality of what we offer at La Calma.

Fine Dining Table Team: That dedication is reflected in every dish. Ignacio, thank you very much for sharing your story and vision with us. It is inspiring to see how you have led La Calma to become a culinary benchmark not only in Chile, but also internationally.

Chef Ignacio Ovalle: Thank you for this opportunity. It is a pleasure to be able to share what we do and continue promoting the richness of the Chilean sea.

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