Substance

Matthias Marc, a chef with experience at prestigious restaurants such as Le Saint-James in Bouliac, Le Meurice, and Lasserre in Paris—and a semifinalist on the 2021 season of the French television show *Top Chef*—offers a menu that prioritizes short supply chains and respects seasonality, with touches that evoke his native Jura region. Dishes such as green asparagus with smoked duck, wild garlic, and lemon balm, or Arctic char with fresh peas, passion fruit, and pepper, reflect his creative, plant-forward style. Desserts are modern and low in sugar, such as the strawberry, rhubarb, and pine creation topped with a thin ribbon of meringue. The wine list is excellent, featuring a selection of mostly organic or natural wines. Uninhibited and spontaneous cuisine: an outstanding place.